Rich or poor, all flock to Rio Carnival parade

Rich and poor alike flocked to Rio de Janeiro's Sambadrome on Monday night to gape at the fantastic Carnival parades - but they saw them from different points of view.

For some, the action took place in lavish hospitality suites overlooking the parade strip, with endless supplies of food and drink and massages and oxygen masks for the weary.

For others, a road alongside a reeking canal offered a vantage point to see the samba groups and their extravagant floats line up in the marshalling area on a closed-off avenue before they marched to the thunder of drums into the Sambadrome.

The action was equally intense either way, with vendors selling beer and fried snacks to the canal crowd and to others gathered on a dark flyover close to the brightly lit Sambadrome.

"It's free here. We waited two hours to get a seat but it's a clear view. Everything we need is here," said Luiz Ricardo, a 19-year-old student sitting on bleachers set up by the city authorities by the canal.

"The canal stinks though," added Jorge.

The Sao Sebastao Highway flyover, sealed off to traffic in one direction, was also a good spot.

"I come here every year," said a construction worker named Andre, pressed up against a chain-link fence with his wife, Suely, and 3-year-old daughter Maria. "I support Beija-Flor (samba school) so I'll be here till the sun comes up.

One bizarre sight the people overlooking the marshalling area get to see -- the cranes and forklifts hoisting the beplumed dancers on to their positions on the top of the huge floats before the parade moves out.

The Sambadrome was designed by Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer especially for the parades in which the city's 12 top samba groups, known as schools, each present an allegorical theme over two nights. It is open at each end to allow them in and out.

CELEBRITY WATCHING

The parades are the highlight of the world-renowned five-day bash, a blend of traditions from the Catholic Portuguese colonists and African slaves that is a chance to blow off steam before the 40-day Lent fasting period.

The schools, whose roots lie in Rio's tough slums, feature up to 6,000 dancers and drummers in a kaleidoscope of colours as well as several elaborately decorated floats. And, of course, there's the virtually naked dancing queens who gyrate down the track to appreciative whoops from the crowd.

Bleachers and private boxes called "camarotes" holding a total of some 85,000 spectators line the route. There is always fierce competition among beer companies to attract models, actresses and celebrities to their lavish camarotes.

The Brahma Beer camarote, packed with people in red and white corporate T-shirts, was heaving. "Charlie's Angels" star Lucy Liu, Italian actress Monica Bellucci, tennis player Anna Kournikova and samba singer Zeca Pagodinho were among the merry-makers there.

Across the way, the rival Nova Schim beer company played host to a bevy of stars from Brazil's beloved soap operas. In the rooms behind the balcony, there was a beauty parlour where they could get a make-up touch up, masseuses, and yet another samba band.

Jane Gottschalk from London and her friend Lisa from New York were in a group of "models, actresses, art dealers and socialites" who had flown in for the fun and were enjoying Nova Schim's generosity.

"It's amazing. We were expecting chaos but it so well organized. The food is wonderful," Jane said.

"And you feel completely safe," added Lisa.

They were staying at the superchic Hotel Fasano and paraded with the Malgueira school on Sunday night.

Six schools were to march on Monday night, kicking off with Mocidade Independente. It and Imperatriz Leopoldinesne both took as their themes the 200th anniversary of the flight of the Portuguese royal family from Napoleon's army and their arrival in Brazil. Grande Rio were to sing about the Amazon rainforest and preserving the environment.

The parades, each lasting about 75 minutes, will wrap up with Andre's favourite and reigning champion Beija-Flor round about daybreak.